Tuesday, November 26, 2013

How to Ride the Bus in Khartoum


            Before coming to Khartoum I was warned about its bus system. Khartoum is a rather large city that spreads across The Nile. Walking in the heat long distances isn’t really an option. So we turn to transport to get around between neighborhoods. Amjads and taxis can be quite expensive. Rickshaws aren’t allowed to cross the bridges and aren’t allowed in certain crowded neighborhoods. And so I introduce you to the buses. With no set schedule or routes the bus system is something I’ve been cautiously attempting recently. And let me tell you I don't hate it. 
The advantages are that buses are incredibly cheap maybe just one pound for a ride. Taking two buses to Khartoum center and paying 2-4 pounds seems well worth the effort when a negotiated amjad could easily run you 30-40 pounds. Also buses run on all the major roads so finding them isn’t very difficult at all. Some guide books have attempted to detail the bus routes but I don’t think these are extremely helpful.

So how do you actually do it? How do you use the bus system when there are no written schedules, routes, and the stations are half parking lots with a few scattered signs in Arabic and half literally in the street? Well it’s not for those looking for the most efficient and timely experience, but this goes hand in hand with Sudanese culture. This being said I still think that Americans could learn a lot from the Sudanese bus system.

Disclaimer: This is from my very limited and personal experience riding a handful of the same routes a dozen or so times.

The easiest way to get a bus is at a bus station, but you can also “catch a bus” if you know gesture correctly and know where its going. Bus “stations” are very spread out sometimes even include the road and side streets. The only way to find out where the bus is that you want is to ask people. Because I don’t actually speak Arabic this normally includes gestures repeating the place, repeating places near the place, and sometimes having had a Sudanese friend write the place in Arabic on a note pad. If youre in the wrong section at “the station” someone will point you in the right direction. Often times someone will even say come with me and will ask around for you till you find the right bus. It common for people to even go far out of their way to help you. So that’s the big secret on how Sudanese navigate a bus system with many routes leaving and coming at different times…they talk to people. For someone with little Arabic this is the main challenge. Luckily, Sudanese are generally happy and patient to help.
If you’re on a major road you can catch a bus. You have to know the hand signal and listen for what the guys are shouting. Once you’re on a bus the bus attendant who stands in the doorway will snap at the front of the bus. It’s time to pay him when he snaps at you. Paying in low bills or coins is the best but I’ve seen people pay for one person with 10s 20s and even a fifty. Often times they collect all of the money before divvying out change. The process of paying by handing and passing money up and down the bus is something admittedly would never work in America, but it is refreshing that people are so trusting and honest so it works in Sudan.
There aren’t really set bus stops. To “request a stop” you snap or hiss. People snap at you to get your attention; its not rude. Even my students snap at me in class. A lot of time for men the bus won’t even come to a complete stop and the guy has to jump out.

Riding the bus has been a mix of good and frustrating experiences for me. To independently get between places without relying on a taxi feels good but sometimes it’s just not realistic. Sometimes buses just don’t go where they say or go over a different bridge than you thought. Sometimes there is no good way by bus to get somewhere. I’ve tried to adapt the Sudanese attitude when it comes to these otherwise problems…its really Ma Mushkila I know I’ll get where I need to go eventually.   I know that sometimes I have to let it go and hop in a rickshaw or amjad. I remind myself “hey youre in a foreign city” Its ok. But I do still laugh when I think about when I told a man I wanted to go to “Khartoum Itneen” (Khartoum 2) and he told me he didn’t speak English I just stared at him. “Khartoum Itneen,” I repeated.


*Note for concerned family I frequently take the bus with Rachel or a group of friends and we almost never ride after 8pm really because they stop running as frequently

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