Let’s talk about Food

OK so far I’ve covered a bit bout the landscape and society in Sudan. I haven’t written nearly enough about something Sudanese are generally excited about…traditional Sudanese food. Within Sudanese traditional food I’ve found some of the strangest flavor combinations out there. Not just strange meaning just new and different spices but I’d think some combinations would be counter intuitive even for a non-Westerner. That being said I’ve also had some amazing meals.

BBQ in the driveway

Before I dive in I should note as I have before that being in Khartoum exposes me to much more international influence than other places in Sudan. One of my first meals in Sudan was a fried chicken sandwich in Al Waha Mall (don’t judge me).  Khartoum has its version of “fast-food,” including fried chicken places, burgers and pizza. They also have a few up-scale restaurants, hotels, cafes, and ice cream shops where one can find treats such as Fettuccine Alfredo, apple danish, and brownie sundaes.  Additionally there is a large presence of Turkish, Egyptian, Syrian, Ethiopian, and Yemini food much of which is new to me. Once when asked about the food by my students I mistakenly told them I liked Chicken Shawarma which was flat out rejected as not Sudanese food, even though they have a Shawarma place on every corner in Khartoum. I’ll be sure to distinguish in this post when I’m referring to traditional or local food and the food I happen to be eating which might not be Sudanese.

The volunteers eating at our favorite Yemani restaurant "Hadraumat"

First the 4 best foods I’ve had:

1. Fresh Bread. Every night we go out and buy fresh rolls for the next morning. “Hesh” (Bread) is extremely cheap and available. For traditional meals in Sudan bread is used in place of utensils so people buy bags and bags of it daily for their families.  It has sincerely forever ruined bread in America for me including ending any sort of opinion I had in the great debate between Bertucci’s rolls and Olive Garden’s breadsticks.  It’s all LIES.
2. Fresh Juice. In the same vain, fresh juice is also a great cheap refreshing treat available most cafeterias. One of my favorites is juahfa (I think guava), but there is also strawberry, mango, and orange, and many more I’m sure. Carcadeh is hibiscus juice or tea is also very good. The trick here is hoping they don’t use too much sugar in the juice. It’s not uncommon when going to a friend’s home to be presented with fresh juice upon arrival. 
3. Shakshukah. Buzzfeed stole my thunder with  26 Reasons Shakshuka is the Most Perfect Food and I can't but help to agree. 16 and 23 (without the cheese) are both good examples of Sudanese style Shakshukah. Buzzfeed left out the biggest “fun fact” about it which I’ve been told almost every time we’ve eaten it. “Shakshuka” sounds similar to the word prostitute so when you order it often people smirk at you. Rachel hopes to learn how to cook it, which I fully support.
4. Lamb on Eid al Adha. Eid al Adha is a Muslim holiday. It’s a festival that involves a family celebration. Eid can last up to two weeks, during which time universities and government buildings are closed. I was lucky enough to be invited to several Eid feasts at the family homes of a few different Sudanese friends. Part of the EId traditions is slaughtering a lamb or goat. Each family buys a lamb or goat and it must be slaughtered by the third day of Eid. It's slaughtered in a very humane and specific way with different parts of the meat going to neighbors, and the mosque, and keeping some of course for the feast. A concept that seemed very foreign to me upon hearing it now doesn’t seem so strange.  Anyway so the one negative during Eid was arriving at our friend’s house around 2 and not eating until 8…granted they do literally have to slaughter the lamb but still! It was well worth the wait perfectly seasoned and tender lamb with many vegetable and other side dishes. 

Did someone order fried fish?

The grand opening of a new restaurant and ice cream shop had some special guests

Traditional Sudanese Food  "Aseeda" and "Moola"

Ok so the picture above shows a traditional Sudanese dish served with bread called grassa. Aseeda is like a porridge. Above are two versions of Aseeda one savory with Moola, and one has a yogurt-like topping. The pasta dish on the left was pasta with syrup on it...straight out of Elf. One colleague even took the sugar dish (out for tea) and dumped spoonfuls of sugar on the pasta. The Sudanese sweet  tooth is no joke.