Welcome to Khartoum

Hi all

Sorry I haven’t started this sooner there has been a lot of excitement in the last two weeks. It actually feels unreal that I’ve been living in Khartoum for two weeks.  There is so much to tell about my experience so far. For some background on what I’m doing check out my fundraising site (still active) here.

My journey starts by meeting fellow Sudan Volunteer Programme teacher and fellow American, Rachel at JFK airport. We had arranged to travel together and are becoming fast friends.

Yay Friends 

I arrived in Khartoum a little past 1 in the morning after a day and a half of traveling. I was greeted by two British guys in grey suits. They were standing right at the exit and somehow I still almost managed to miss them, but they called to us. They explained they don’t normally dress like that but were coming from a friend’s wedding. It was really quite funny. 

Obligatory awkward picture of me with a goat

 My first two days in Sudan felt very surreal. When we were driving around people would point things out. Actually, people were constantly telling us information about Khartoum; where we were, tips for getting around, or good Arabic phrases to know. I don’t think I retained much of anything but by the third time you go somewhere or hear a word it starts to become familiar.  One thing you notice right away about Khartoum is that it is extremely noisy and crowded. People, motorcycles, amjads (taxis), all compete in getting around the streets. Their sidewalks are also crowded with guys set up selling phone credit, cigarettes, and candy. Mostly, people walk in the street. Maybe I’ve already gotten used to it but I was also taken a back with how loud the streets were. Of course you can hear the call to prayer, but just in the street people have megaphones advertising their goods, or radios blasting music, and people try to get you attention by saying “welcome” or “Khawaja”  which is the word for white person. The noise seems to take a physical presence also inhibiting the ease of getting around. I already feel like I’m used to this so it’s not really a problem.

Another thing you immediately notice is the buildings in Khartoum are odd in that a very nice modern office building will be next to a building that has been left incomplete with open stories. Many empty building frames have been started and seem to be abandoned projects. They cover the city.

Example A

            The other thing that left the greatest impression on my first couple of days was the tradition of sitting out on the street in some shade and having a chai (tea) at a sita chai (tea lady). I’ve sat for tea every day since being in Sudan and often times we go at least two or even three times daily. I’m proud to say within my first week I could order my tea in Arabic including the very important phrase “sukrah barrah” (sugar out or on the side). If you forget this request your tea might be up to ¼ sugar making it taste like hot syrup (see pic). Sitas chai set up anywhere where there is shade. A local favorite spot is along the Nile. Sita Chai who have cups with handles are also preferable by the group (for obvious reasons ). If you’d like you can order coffee instead of tea but it is strongly spiced with ginger; a flavor combination I’m still getting used too.

Ladies who Tea

Okay I’ll write more soon. I’ve got a lot to say about white privilege and gender differences. What?! You didn't think I was going to write a blog just about all the "strange" food and how hot it was and not get into some deep stuff?!  Look forward to it.

Proof I'm alive and happy. Look the Nile so exotic!